The first buildings of Manners Street

One of the earliest photographs of Te Aro provides a glimpse of life in the 1850s.

A small photograph mounted to card is one of the earliest known images taken of Manners Street and the wider Te Aro area.

This copy print belonging to the Library has recently been digitised, allowing us to . When we digitise images from the Library's collection we need to make sure the information provided is correct. In this case, the photograph has been credited to an F. J. Denton who took it in 1863.

The photograph of Te Aro has annotations made in a felt-tip pen that include the date 1863.

The photograph of Te Aro has annotations made in a felt-tip pen that include the date 1863.

Denton's sticker on the reverse of the image

Denton's sticker on the reverse of the image

Upon investigation it turns out that photographer F. J. Denton of Whanganui wasn't born until 1869 - six years after the photo was allegedly taken. What appears to have happened is Denton purchased the aged negative from an unknown photographer and reproduced it at his own studio, selling it under his own name. At a time before mass-produced photographs, many small companies did this to boost their profits.

The date provided on the photograph also is also unlikely to be correct. Photography historian William Main suggested an earlier date of 1858, which is likely based on the structures in place and the lack of town development further east of the Pa site.

Enlarging the image gives us a surprising amount of detail. Basic wooden buildings surround laneways and the water's edge, and Te Aro Pa can be seen just east of the Waimapihi Stream where cattle graze freely.

We've been able to identify some of the buildings through early provincial council records including rate books and survey maps, as well as newspaper articles from the 1850s relating to the sale of property.

In 1858 there is no Wakefield Street or Jervois Quay; reclamation into this part of the harbour wouldn't occur for another few decades. Some other streets have since been renamed or rerouted as the needs of the city changed.

Manners Street runs through the centre of the image. We can see Te Aro Pa at the top end, and the dirt pathways beyond will eventually become Courtenay Place.

Intersection of Manners Street and Willis Street in 1864. Horses and hens share the muddy road. Photograph by William Thomas Locke Travers.

Intersection of Manners Street and Willis Street in 1864. Horses and hens share the muddy road. Photograph by William Thomas Locke Travers.

Infrastructure is minimal and the streets are dirty and difficult for pedestrians to use. The primary means of transport (other than walking) is by horse, though cattle, sheep and chickens often wander onto the roads too.

Narrow lanes stretch out from either side of Manners. Lombard and Cornhill Streets are home to majority of the commercial buildings due to their proximity to the harbour, and residential properties tend to be clustered on the south side of Manners.

"Old Customhouse Street" is known as such due to the Custom House previously being housed here. The name would later be changed to Bond Street.

Black and white image looking over Te Aro towards Mt Victoria.

An alternate view of the Lombard Street area showing the densely-packed wooden buildings. Basic wharves jut out from the beach at Old Customhouse Street.

An alternate view of the Lombard Street area showing the densely-packed wooden buildings. Basic wharves jut out from the beach at Old Customhouse Street.

At this stage Cuba Street is much shorter than today and stops at Manners Street. The shape of these streets were defined firstly by the curve of the beach and secondly by the town acres that were surveyed for early European settlers to purchase. After the foreshore was reclaimed and Wakefield Street built, a portion of Town Acre 211 was acquired by the City Council to extend Cuba north of Manners Street.

Small paddock with basic wooden dwellings.

Cuba Street in the 1860s.

Cuba Street in the 1860s.

Te Aro Pa is visible at the edge of town on Te Aro Flat.

The site was originally established and occupied by Ngāti Mutunga in 1824, however they moved on to Whaekauri (Chatham Islands) shortly after. This coincided with the southward migration of some Ngāti Ruanui, Te Ātiawa and Taranaki Iwi hapū.

The Pa site was home to around 200 Māori at the time of European arrival. The surrounding area was rich with plant life and sources of food, with streams flowing down to the beach and wetlands nearby.

An 1852 lithograph by T.S. Norman showing Waitangi Stream (left) as it meets the shore near Te Aro Pa. Image sourced from the Alexander Turnbull Library.

An 1852 lithograph by T.S. Norman showing Waitangi Stream (left) as it meets the shore near Te Aro Pa. Image sourced from the Alexander Turnbull Library.

European arrival coupled with a major earthquake in 1855 (just three years before this photo was taken) drastically reduced the land available for cultivation. Many Māori moved away from the city and though some remained at Te Aro Pa, the exact population when this image was captured is unknown.

By the 1850s the European population in the lower North Island was increasing and heavily relied on Wellington's deep harbour with its abundant shores.

An 1840s illustration by Robert Park showing the Te Aro foreshore. Sourced from the Alexander Turnbull Library.

An 1840s illustration by Robert Park showing the Te Aro foreshore. Sourced from the Alexander Turnbull Library.

Early settlers built their own wharves, though these were not sufficient provide for the large ships coming in from overseas. Importers relied on 'lighters'; small boats (as pictured above) that carried goods between the ships and the beach. Sheep and people were also moved across in the lighters with larger animals (horses, cattle) swimming to shore themselves.

It is rare to find quality photography from this era owing to the limited camera equipment available and the huge expense of shipping it to New Zealand.

Whoever this photographer was, they were likely standing on Flagstaff Hill in the vicinity of Percival Street, which offered them a clear view over Te Aro.

You will notice that some details on the image have been enhanced or added to the print using ink. This was how print sellers such as F. J. Denton could increase the contrast or 'vibrance' of their images to make them more appealing and sellable. Highlights and some darker ink detail are visible in the lower half of this photo.

The wharf shown here is one such example. A photograph taken several years later shows it in greater detail:

Settler W.B. Rhodes established this wharf in 1841. It was the first public wharf in town, and while free to use, Rhodes gained considerable business by having a store ready to sell imported goods as they came in.

Rhodes and his wife Sarah lived behind the store in a large home. He grew his (already substantial) land holdings and by 1853 was already known as 'the millionaire of Wellington'.

Rhodes later shifted from Te Aro following Sarah's death to his property at Highland Park (now Wadestown), though remained in control of hundreds of thousands of acres across New Zealand.

W.B. Rhodes' grand estate at Highland Park. Photograph taken by E.S. Richards in 1867. Sourced from the Alexander Turnbull Library.

W.B. Rhodes' grand estate at Highland Park. Photograph taken by E.S. Richards in 1867. Sourced from the Alexander Turnbull Library.

Next door to the Rhodes' residence was a steam-powered flour mill. Established on the bank next to Waimapihi Stream just months before this photo was taken, it was run by brothers John and Thomas Kebbell.

Kebbell's Mill after additional rooms had been added, c. 1880.

Kebbell's Mill after additional rooms had been added, c. 1880.

This property nearby consists of two yards and a large iron store. Spanning the entirety of Town Acre 211, it was managed by the imperial "War Department" and used for storage. It is this section that later became the Cuba Street extension.

A stock yard next door held newly-imported animals and facilitated their sales. This was the property of Bethune & Hunter, a well known wine merchant who also auctioned animals, furniture, and cooking items bought ashore.

An 1862 newspaper advertisement regarding the sale of stock at the Manners Street yards.

An 1862 newspaper advertisement regarding the sale of stock at the Manners Street yards.

Bethune and Hunter's main buildings were closer to the shore in Old Customhouse Street. Remarkably the 1840s buildings remained intact for over a century until they were demolished in 1958.

In its early days the company also acted as agents for ships passing through, selling passenger fares to both domestic and international ports.

Bethune & Hunter placed ads in both English and Te Reo Māori newspapers. These clippings announce space for passengers heading to Nelson / Wakatu on the ship Burmah.

Bethune & Hunter placed ads in both English and Te Reo Māori newspapers. These clippings announce space for passengers heading to Nelson / Wakatu on the ship Burmah.

Manners Street featured several busy hotels. These spaces act as meeting places, pubs, makeshift courtrooms, and booking offices. The New Zealander Hotel on the corner of Lombard and Manners Streets also offered horse stables at the rear of the building for travelers and locals.

The Wesleyan Church had a very early presence on Te Aro Flat, with the first service being held in 1839. As per mission policy, this chapel at Te Aro Pa was built in 1845 for services held in Te Reo Māori. English services were held at a larger church nearby.

An 1866 survey of Te Aro Pa showing the location of the chapel on the corner of Manners Street and Lukes Lane (streets have been labelled incorrectly).

An 1866 survey of Te Aro Pa showing the location of the chapel on the corner of Manners Street and Lukes Lane (streets have been labelled incorrectly).

The main Methodist church and parsonage was built in 1850 following the destruction of another on the site in the 1848 earthquake. This second church withstood the next large quake but was replaced less than 20 years later to accommodate a growing congregation.

The next church at the Manners Street site was opened in 1868 and destroyed alongside many other buildings in the "Great Fire of 1879".

The next church at the Manners Street site was opened in 1868 and destroyed alongside many other buildings in the "Great Fire of 1879".

Manners Street and the surrounding area gradually became part of the inner city when Wellington began to sprawl towards Mt Victoria and Mt Cook.

Manners Street around 60 years later, c. 1920.

Manners Street around 60 years later, c. 1920.

The narrow and muddy throughfare became a hub of entertainment from early on. The Royal Victoria Theatre opened in 1843 near the Willis Street intersection, and later the Regent Theatre and Grand Opera House were also built. Once linked to Courtenay Place, it became a major transport link for trams and buses.

Manners Street, 1990. Wellington City Council Archives, 00557-540-14

Manners Street, 1990. Wellington City Council Archives, 00557-540-14

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